I picked up a Pypes “Pype Bomb” Muffler Delete Kit off of Blue Oval Industries Ebay store last week for my 2013 Ford Mustang 5.0. Saturday I started the installation. First off, let me say I got a pretty good deal from Blue Oval Industries, I used the “make offer” option and got the kit for $275 shipped. But I will say this Blue Oval Industries has possibly the rudest person ever answering their emails, I definitely wouldn’t buy ANYTHING from them again.
Anyway, on to the install.
Pretty vague instructions, but hey, how hard can it be?
These are the tools they recommend, obviously I didn’t use the jack stands because I did it on the lift, I will say this would be a major pain to do on the ground. Also I would recommend at very least a 13mm wrench for the bottom hanger bolts, Its nearly impossible to get a ratchet in there. If possible get a 13 mm ratcheting wrench, life will be MUCH easier if you do!
Before I got started I unboxed everything to make sure there wasn’t any extra hardware or anything else I needed to look at before the instillation.
The tips are nice, I like the embossed lettering on them, although I imagine it will be a real pain to polish around later on in life.
Okay, so the instructions say to loosen the pipes where they connect under the car to the crossover pipe, no big deal, two bolts per side, this is where you will need the 15 mm socket at.
After that I headed for the muffler clamp, again no big deal.
This is where it becomes a pain. The instructions say to take the back(front of the car) hanger down, okay. Well first you, or at least I, had to take the front hanger off to move the muffler enough to access the bottom hanger bolt. There are three bolts total on the driver’s side hanger, its a little different than the passenger side. I tried to pull the muffler out without removing it, because at first its pretty intimidating to look at with the muffler in its correct position, but it won’t work. Believe me, after 20 minutes of trying I know. I would also recommend spraying the rubber down with penetrating oil. When I first read the instructions I though, spray my bolts? Its a new car, I don’t need that. But then after re-reading I realized it was the rubber they were talking about. After doing that it was much easier to work with.
So once finally out of the car I still had to get the bracket off the old muffler. For some reason(probably because I was mad and frustrated) I couldn’t get the bracket to slid over the fat end, so I proceeded to break my bracket in the process.
At this point, I used the cutting wheel.
You also have to cut the tabs on the old clamps, pretty simple to do, but you’d think for $300 you would get ten dollars worth of new clamps, oh well.
Old muffler out of the way and ready for the new one! Or, uh, lack there of!
Installing the new piece is pretty easy without the muffler in the way of everything. Once I tried the bracket every way but the right one, it went right in, minus the broken part.
I had a buddy that stopped by help me line this one up, its much easier as a two man job. I’m not 100% happy with the alignment, but I’ll tweak it a little later, they need to be slid in toward the front a little more I think.
The second side went a lot easier, but the one bolt in the bracket is still a pain.
Both out! Finally!
I was on my own installing the other one so I used a piece of cardboard to hold the pipe in place while I tightened things down. Worked pretty good!
And the finished product!
Overall it took me about 3 hours to do. in hindsight, I could probably knock it out again in two knowing how to do it now.
And now for the sound clip! While I must admit, stock sounds pretty dang good for stock, I like it now a lot better! I know the muffler delete sound isn’t for everyone, but for the money, I don’t think you can beat it!
For more pictures and installs on the car, CLICK HERE
Fuel injected, barn find? This thing is too cool not to be the Ebay Find Of The Week!
CLICK HERE to see the ad.
Below is the article from the ad.
We are selling a 61 project that one of our clients has been putting together for several years. When he bought this 61 it had a 327 in it, the one you can see in the pics. He bought a 283 and a set of 461 heads and had it stamped but never built it. He has a original fuel injection unit and an original intake and an original distributor and the correct exhaust manifold with no boss drilled in it sitting in a box on the side. The unit has a a serial num of 1408 and a part num of 7017320. Look at the pic and see what you think. The body is very dirty but appears unhit. The area around the heater box will need repair, otherwise good shape. The frame has surface rust from sitting in the barn for 20+ years but not structural. The car is sitting on rollers but I found 5 wheels in the barn that appear original. We have a soft top frame and a hard top. There are the two seats in the car and two more on top. It is plain to see the car was not a fuelie from the factory, check the pics. There are several new parts, mostly grill and trim type things. So to recap, two engines, 5 wheels, FI unit, intake, dist, 461 heads, 4 seats, hardtop, soft top frame, many boxes of old and some new parts, generator, starter, bell housing, tranny all appear correct.
Check out this weeks Ebay Find Of The Week. Its a 1968 Chevrolet Corvette, factory 427 big block car. But its a project. Still a pretty good deal though as it sits right now! Check it out!
Here is the quote from the article.
I have here one 1968 corvette convertible 427 with turbo 400 trans. the turbo trans is # matching and is L for big block 427 the motor is not # matching it is 427 dated august 6th 1968 .motor and trans are out of car and the motor needs rebuilt. trans needs cleaned a bit and new seals. car has all the bbc parts still on car has bbc radiator and radiator suport and shield. has big fuel line ,has 427 hood , has the solid u-joints on half shafts and bbc heavy duty sway bars as well as # correct 427 rearend.this was a hardtop only car, deck lid has no holes for convertible top. top in in really nice shape rear glass is perfect all stainless is great. originally had white vinyl on it. seats were redone at some time and car has had one repaint over the original bright blue. body is in really nice original condition has one bad repair on drivers rear quarter panel. frame and underside was undercoated. they really plastered it good but where its coming off the frame is nice. there are no rust issues with frame end caps and control arm areas are nice and solid. car is mostly complete only missing a couple of things like outer rocker panels and some emblems like on gas cap. i can sit motor and trans back in car for shipping, no car does not run and drive and yes it needs restored. it is however in nice overall condition for its age. everything is there in the engine compartment as well as interior original am-fm radio car has 4 wheel disc power brakes. no power steering, windows roll up and down nicely , please only bid if you have funds there will be a non refundable 500.00 deposit due within 24 hours of auction end , and balance due in 7 days. i have a good clean clear title to car.motor turns over fine but needs rebuilt. it is mostly complete missing only exhaust manifolds i have the carb,fan blade. car has spare tire carrier in rear and lock. car looks like it ran and drove when motor was pulled out so everything is there .
Project cars are getting harder and harder to come by these days. This one caught my eye because its a Challenger “T/A” edition which I myself own a restored version of. While this one appears to have all the right documentation it would take a whole lot to restore it to its former glory.
CLICK HERE for the ad.